Giovanni Morelli writes that sales of Argentinean wines are growing, as the quality of that country’s wines has greatly improved over the last decade.
Probably the most hated word in the English language at present is ‘regulator’. In this instance, it is not because the banks were over-regulated, but precisely the opposite. If the regulator had done his job properly, perhaps we wouldn’t be in the mess we are in at present! However, words are interesting and have different meanings to different people. They are very much dependent on context. In the world of wine, clearly the regulations are important, but one of the results is the ‘sameness’ of wines.
In the rush to introduce new technology and make things ‘better’, the regulations have stultified new ideas. As Matt Cramer says in the Wine Spectator, “If experience is anything to go by – and it’s worth something, I think – wines that are revolutionary are almost never revelatory. It’s as simple, and as conservative, as that.”
He says, “Most of what I’ve been told has been wrong. Not totally, utterly wrong. But most of these ‘advances’ have been followed by retreats.”
The Russian Ambassador to Afghanistan was recently quoted as saying, “The Brits and the Russians were kicked out and the Americans will follow suit.” But he also is credited with a more philosophical statement: “I know a lot about the past and nothing about the future.”
This could be applied to the banking crisis at present but equally to the situation in Australia. Australian wine sales are in trouble. Exchange rates, a drought and probably some degree of hubris have all contributed to their present state. Hundreds of employees have been laid off and Foster’s (probably linked more with beer than wine) has announced its first losses in 16 years.
h4. The giant share
Australia no longer enjoys the giant share of the market that it had in the ’80s and ’90s. Marketing strategies were also poor. As Chuck Hayward from San Francisco is quoted as saying, “The industry as a whole never taught that Australia has 65 regions, not just South Australia. That’s a bit like defining Italy as only Brunello.”
One country that has become a major wine exporter in the last 15 years is Argentina. Although the gurus attribute Argentinean wine-growing to the Hispano-Italian immigrants in the 19th century, the most widely planted and most popular grape variety is Malbec.
This grape originates in Bordeaux and Cahors (known as Auxerrois or Cot) and was probably brought to Argentina in the pre-Phylloxera era. This grape ripens with difficulty in France but apparently is ideally suited to Argentina.
Until recently, Argentina made large quantities of indifferent wine for local consumption but in the last decade, this has totally changed. Investment, new technology and openness to the outside world have contributed.
What distinguishes Argen-tina from other wine-producing countries is the elevation at which vines are planted and the climate. In Tuscany, for example, the maximum elevation is about 500 metres and some say that is too high. Yet in Argentina, vines are planted at elevations of over 1,000 metres.
On the labels of many Argentinean wines, the elevation at which the vines are planted is documented. The climate at these altitudes is remarkably free of parasites and other disease-related organisms. However, sudden frost or hail storms can be devastating.
h4. Electric storm
Having witnessed a ‘temporale’ or electric storm in Tuscany, I have seen how hail can be most destructive. At these altitudes (>1000m), days are hot and nights are cool, allowing the vines to rest.
Mendoza is the city and area most widely known in Ireland and wines made from the Malbec grape are widely available. The Mendoza valley is in the west of Argentina, close to the Chilean border. For my money, the best bodega in Argentina is Catena Zapata. Founded in 1902, they only began exporting in 1991.
Apparently, they have a striking new Mayan-style vineyard in Agrelo, where they produce Catena from Malbec grapes, Catena Malbec 2006, RRP €17.95. This is superb example and is ideally suited for cold winter nights with a casserole. It is available from On the Grapevine in Booterstown, ‘Fresh’ stores around Dublin, Donnybrook Fair, The Vintry in Rathgar, Kelly’s in Clontarf, Thomas Woodberry’s Wines in Galway and The Wicklow Arms in Delgany.
At Botega Esmeralda, they produce their largest brand, ‘Argento’. I tasted this a number of years ago in a restaurant in Cork and was very impressed. It is widely available in supermarkets and wine shops for <€10. The Terrazas Malbec, 2007 and the Reserva 2006 are both excellent and I bought them in the Cellars, The Big Wine Warehouse in Dublin for €11.99 and €15.99 respectively.
Lastly, from Superquinn, A Malbec for €6, Santa Julia 2004. Not a serious wine, but okay for parties. Hopefully, in these long winter nights, the gloom of the recession will be made slightly more palatable by some full-bodied Argentinean red wines!
Ciao for now,
Giovanni.
About Gary Culliton
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